Sardegna West Coast: Part 2 Bosa to Is Arenas

Published on:  | Last updated: 5 April 2018

Mural in Tinnura - 'Caminzende sa die ..' by Pina Monne

Mural in Tinnura - 'Caminzende sa die ..' by Pina Monne

At a glance

Distance

44 kms

Difficulty/​terrain

Moderate. There is a fair amount of climbing, but no really big climbs.

Traffic

The route is on quiet roads.

Surfaces

Entirely on surfaced roads in good condition.

Finding your way

The route is easy to follow using the normal road signs.

Overview

A change of pace as this section takes you inland. The highlight are the murales in the villages of Suni, Tinnura, Flussio, and Sennariolo.

Highlights

Most are the work of the local artist Pina Monne (it/​en). The majority of the murals celebrate —or commem­orate— the rural way of life, local tradi­tions and crafts. There's obviously a strong element of nostalgia that borders on senti­ment­ality, but it's often rescued by a playful use of illusion and visual jokes: so in the bottom corner of a mural you might see the artist's brushes appar­ently left behind, or a passerby looking at the mural, or a real pair of boots sticking out of the wall.

The biggest concen­tration of murals is on the Via Nazionale (SS129) as it passes through Tinnura. If you don't have the time or the inclin­ation to see them all, these are the ones to go for.

Beaches

There are plenty of beaches on the southern section including the huge and largely undeveloped beach at Is Arenas.

Mural in Tinnura - title and artist unknown.

Mural in Tinnura - title and artist unknown.

Map and altitude profile

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Route description

Bosa to Tharros and the Capo San Marco

Coming out of Bosa cross the Ponte Vecchio over the river (pause a moment to admire the view of Bosa’s water­front) and pick up the SS 129. This starts to climb almost immedi­ately out of the river valley. Don't forget to take a look back over Bosa —some of the best views to be had from the road. You come the junction with the SP 35: continue on the main road and ignore the signs for Tresnuraghes. The SP35 offers a more direct route to Tresnuraghes so if you are running short of time you might want to take it, but you would miss the villages with the murales.

The strada statale continues to climb steadily following the edge of the bowl. At the bottom of the bowl are fields filled with olive groves and vineyards.

Olive groves and vineyards near Modol - view from the SS129bis

Olive groves and vineyards near Modol - view from the SS129bis

When you get to a junction at the top of the climb, turn right following the signs for Flussio and the sign for the centre of Suni. You can see the first mural on your right as you head into the village.

Coming out of Suni you pick up the SS129bis heading for Tinnura which is only a few hundred metres away. The first mural is on your left-hand side on the corner of the Via Nuova as you come into the village with the church tower in front of you. In fact there are a whole group on the Via Nuova itself and on the little piazzetta opposite. In the piazzetta there’s a contem­porary take on the tradi­tional fountain (the water is not drinkable). Continuing along the main street past the church tower you come to a whole series of houses with frescoed façades.

Mural in Tinnura - Lavotrici d'Asfoleto by Pina Monne

Mural in Tinnura - Lavotrici d'Asfoleto by Pina Monne

There are a couple more murales in Flussio the next village along. From Flussio the road descends down to Magomadas and Tresnuraghes. It then flattens out, passing through a lovely stretch of countryside with a mixture of sheep grazing in the fields, olive groves and wheat­fields.

At a couple of points you cross over the little single­track railway which runs between Bosa and Macomer. The trenino verde only runs from June to end September (more info about the Trenino Verde della Sardegna: treninoverde.com .

The next stop after Tinnura is Sennariolo —whose claim to fame is that it is the smallest village in Sardegna. The first group of murals are really easy to miss: on the corner opposite the snack bar as you come into the village.

After Sennariolo it's time to climb to Cuglieri. As you climb, you’ll see the massive Basilica di Santa Maria della Neve on the hill above the town. The round­about just before Cuglieri there is the altern­ative option of taking the SP102 which bypasses the town. But it’s about the same distance. Otherwise stay on the SS 292. The centro storico of the town looks inter­esting if you have the time to visit.

Cyclists near Cuglieri

Cyclists near Cuglieri

From Cuglieri there is a long cruising descent all the way down to the sea. There are some stretches of straight road where you need to watch out for oncoming cars taking the oppor­tunity to overtake. The road comes down to the seaside town/​resort of Santa Caterina di Pittinuri, and from there to neigh­bouring S’Archittu. S'Archittu is best known for an arch carved by the sea out of the limestone cliffs.

The road continues from S’Archittu skirting around the Pineta di Is Arenas. On the other side of the pineta there is a six-kilometre long stretch of unspoilt beach. Almost the only devel­opment in the area are three campsites.

Mural in Tinnura. Artist: Pina Monne

Mural in Tinnura. Artist: Pina Monne

More information

Places to stay

Hotels and B&Bs etc

There are hotels and B&Bs at Bosa (and nearby Bosa Marina), after that there's a hotel at Cuglieri, and hotels at S'Archittu.

Find and book places to stay with Booking.com

Booking.com pages for places on this section of the route:

About these links

If you use these links to book accom­mod­ation Booking.com will pay me a small part of their commission. This helps support the costs of producing this site.

I use Booking.com to find and book places to stay when there are no campsites in the area. The large majority of hotels and many hostels are now on ‘Booking’. I like it because it means that I can get almost-instant confirm­ation. The rating system is also a reliable guide to the quality of the accom­mod­ation.

I’ve never had a problem finding places to keep my bike —even if it’s a cupboard or store room. I always use the ‘special requests’ field on the booking form to tell the hotel that I’m travelling with a bike, which gives them the oppor­tunity to let me know if there’s a problem.

Many properties offer free cancel­lation but it’s a good idea to check the condi­tions as these vary from property to property.

Hostels

According to Google, the the Hostal de l'Alguer in Fertilia has closed perman­ently. If you know better please let me know.

There's defin­itely a large modern hostel at Oristano: the Hostel Rodia. There should also be a hostel at San Giovanni di Sinis: the Hostel Oasi Marina. I couldn't find a website, but the phone number is, hopefully, +39 0783 310 101.

There may also a hostel in Bosa Marina. Its website has been hacked and its facebook page hasn't been updated in a couple of years. According to Google its phone number is: +39 0785 375633. In Bosa I stayed at the very reasonably-priced b&b Sa Rocchitta.

Campsites

At Is Arenas I stayed at the Villaggio Is Arenas. There were two other campsites in the immediate area and I chose this one more or less at random.

At Torregrande I stayed at Spinnaker Vacanze at Torregrande (close to Oristano). There's an excellent restaurant in nearby Torregrande (Molo 21).

  Campsites map:  FT-Sardegna-West-Coast-campsites-map
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Transport and services

There's a rail station at Oristano with services to Olbia and Cagliari.

Resources

Tourist information

Other tourism resources

Places of interest

Mural in Sennariolo - Artist: Pina Monne. Note the real leather boots.

Mural in Sennariolo - Artist: Pina Monne. Note the real leather boots.

Articles in this series

Mural in Suni. Artist Pina Monne

Mural in Suni. Artist Pina Monne


Get in touch

Please get in touch if you find any errors in the information, or if there’s anything, good or bad, that you’d want other cyclists to know.

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