Published on: 2 February 2014  | Last updated: 25 December 2019

This section of the route takes you through the port of Livorno and on towards one of the most scenic stretches of the coast of mainland Toscana. In then heads through the coastal pine woods and on to the wine country around Bolgheri, before coming to Baratti with its atmospheric Etruscan necro­polis - and a nice sandy beach.

Look out for the  Keith Hareng mural (opens in overlay) just off the route on the way out of town. The route from Pisa to the coast follows quiet country roads and is pretty uneventful. At the coast is the Marina di Pisa and from here an attractive stretch of road leads through Tirrenia and Calambrone. 

You wouldn’t describe the approach into Livorno from the north as scenic - as it heads past the container port, a gas storage facility and power station - but the centre of Livorno is well worth a look with the Medici castle on an island in the middle of the city. 

The road south from Livorno defin­itely makes up for the grittiness of the approach from the north, with a wide cycleway passing coastal villas and the naval training school, and continuing on via Antignano. These are some of the best sea views on the whole of the mainland Tuscan coast so make the most of them. Unfortunately while the views are superb, the road here is relat­ively busy until you get to Quercianella where you can turn off and enjoy the little seaside resort.

Map

This section is quite long —but there are plenty of places along the way where you can break your journey.

The route then continues on via Castiglioncello and Rosignano Mare. At Mazzanto you have the oppor­tunity of following the off-road routes through the nature reserve that runs between Mazzanto and Bibbona Mare. The surface of the track through the pineta is fine (I did it after several days of heavy rain and it was perfectly rideable). Apart from being gorgeous, the pineta would, on a hot sunny day, quite literally be the cooler alternative.

After Bibbona there’s a brief detour away from the coast to Bolgheri. One of Toscana’s other wine producing areas it’s defin­itely a good place to stop for a meal or snack with a glass of wine - if you can get the timing right. Bolgheri is also known for the avenue of cypress trees that runs dead straight for nearly 5 kms down to the sea.

Bolgheri is one of the up-and-coming wine-growing areas in Toscana - lead by the Marchese Incisa della Rocchetta owner of the Tenuta San Guido which produces the Sassicaia wine which helped to shake up wine production in the region. This very expensive and presti­gious wine was originally classified as a humble ‘vino di tavola’ (table wine) because it was produced outside the restrictive rules that governed the production of Chianti.

From Bibbona the tour follows the wine road (Strada del Vino della Costa degli Etruschi) before returning to the coast and the Riva degli Etruschi between San Vicenzo and Populonia.

Parco archaeologico - Populonia-Baratti

Baratti and Populonia are the most signi­ficant Etruscan site along this stretch of coast (Parco Archeologico di Baratti e Populonia it/eng). There are a couple of necropoli and an attractive and unspoilt beach at Baratti. The Necropoli della Cava, constructed from an old sandstone quarry, with the golfo di Baratti as a backdrop, is one of the most evocative of the Etruscan sites (allow about an hour, and shoes you can walk in are a must). 

More about the Parco Archeologico

From Baratti, the best option is to take the road to Venturina and then pick up the old via Aurelia towards Follonica - the roads into and out of Populonia are probably best avoided unless you are heading for Elba. If you have the time and the inclin­ation Campiglia Marittima is well worth the climb and the nearby Blucamp is one of the best in the area. 

Options

Unless you are really in a hurry, seriously consider a detour to Elba. For my money the most scenic coastline in Toscana. The campsites are generally better and better value than on the mainland. See my Elba Tour article.

Articles in this series

• The Tuscan coast: overview
• The Tuscan coast – Part 1: from the border with Liguria to Viareggio and Pisa
• The Tuscan coast – option: taking the high road
• The Tuscan coast Part 2: Pisa to Livorno and Populonia
• The Tuscan coast – Part 3: from Populonia to Marina di Grosseto
• The Tuscan coast – Part 4: through the Maremma to Capalbio
• The Tuscan coast – option: a tour of Elba